Chapter 10. Belur. Chennakeshava Temple


Various architectural mysteries always captivate the minds of mankind. They make you freeze as if for a moment petrified next to exquisitely processed massive stones. ⠀

Lace Hindu temples remain a centuries-old mystery for modern man. Huge carved columns and openwork elements of temples cause heated debates about how ancient Indians could sculpt such beauty with a hammer and chisel. Or did they still have lathes or some other more cunning tools? ⠀

Belur is the second capital of Hoysala, which received refugees from Halebid during the war with the Muslims. It took 103 years to build the Chennakeshava Temple in Belur. It was built by the Hoysala king Vishnuvarhana. Architectural style: Hoysal. At the base, the temple resembles a star.


The walls of the facades are made with horizontal friezes showing scenes from the Puranas, Upanishads, Ramayana and Mahabharata.

Of the sculptures, the figures of dancers – apsaras – stand out. Especially famous is the sculpture of Drapana Sundari – a beauty looking in the mirror. Apsaras from Belur Temple, Karnataka 1117 CE

Demigoddesses in Hindu mythology, spirits of clouds or water. Beautiful women, in rich clothes and wearing jewelry. In Vedic mythology, they are the wives and lovers of the Gandharvas. Celestial dancers and courtesans. Also, according to legend, apsaras appease heroes who fell in battle in the paradise of Indra.

There are several versions of the origin of apsaras. In the Ramayana it is mentioned that the apsaras arose from the churning of the ocean by the gods and asuras, neither of them wanted to take them as wives, and they began to belong to everyone. According to other legends, the most famous apsaras (such as Menaka, Urvashi, Tilottama, etc.) were created by Brahma, and the rest were the daughters of Daksha. Apsaras, who were in the direct service of the gods, were often used by them to seduce ascetics or holy hermits who, through asceticism, could become equal to the gods. The figures are well detailed, but, unfortunately, elements of some sculptures are lost.

Inside, the temple is supported by 22 columns made of solid stone. The central pillar of Narasimha (avatar of Vishnu) depicts more than a hundred deities. The Narasimha Pillar, made of soapstone, once had the ability to rotate. When you touch the pole, you get the impression that you are touching soap. The physical properties of soapstone are softness, non-porosity, low electrical conductivity and high heat capacity, heat resistance and resistance to acids and alkalis.

The temple is quite dark, so Indian guides periodically turn on a lantern to illuminate the carved ceilings and the murti of Vishnu. Vishnu holds a conch shell in his upper right hand, a chakra (disk) in his upper left hand, a lotus in his lower right hand and a club in his lower left hand. On either side are his consorts Sridevi and Bhudevi.

Inside the temple, at one of the entrances, you can see Ananta-shesha – one of the forms of God in Hinduism and Vedic religion – a thousand-headed serpent, the king of all nagas. He is depicted with 5-7 heads, and most often with many heads, on each of which he wears a crown decorated with precious stones and patterns.

The temple was used not only as a religious building, but also for meetings of the rajah and his advisers, and justice was also administered here.

On the territory of the temple there is a pond with fish and turtles.

You can get to the temple from Belur.

The most convenient flight is from Mysore. There are also flights from Goa to Bangalore, then by car or taxi.

It is convenient to combine a trip to Belur with a trip to Mysore.

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