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Unit 1 FASHION DESIGN

aesthetics, accessories, latitudes, clothing, garment, market, consumer, range, combinations, patterns, conventional, occasions, specifically, haute couture, bespoke tailoring, mass market, casual, every-day wear, freelance designer, directly, manufacturers, selfemployed, apparel, muslin, via, precise, painstaking, accuracy, operational outfit, concept, technicality, according, predominantly, ready-to-wear, quantities, customers, kitsch, high-waisted trousers, bridal.

to anticipate, to require, to influence, to attempt, to satisfy, to desire, to consider, to design, to bear, to establish, to sketch, to drape, to satisfy, to depend, to figure out, to split up, to guarantee.

Fashion design is the art of the application of design and aesthetics or natural beauty to clothing and accessories. Fashion design is influenced by cultural and social latitudes, and has varied over time and place. Fashion designers work in a number of ways in designing clothing and accessories. Some work alone or as part of a team. They attempt to satisfy consumer desire for aesthetically designed clothing; and, because of the time required to bring a garment onto the market, must at times anticipate changing consumer tastes.

Fashion designers attempt to design clothes which are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. They must consider who is likely to wear a garment and the situations in which it will be worn. They have a wide range and combinations of materials to work with and a wide range of colors, patterns and styles to choose from. Though most clothing worn for everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual garments are usually sought for special occasions, such as evening wear or party dresses.

Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in the case of haute couture or bespoke tailoring. Today, most clothing is designed for the mass market, especially casual and every-day wear. Fashion designers can work in a number of many ways. Fashion designers may work full-time for one fashion as 'in-house designers' which owns the designs. They may work alone or as part of a team. Freelance designers work for themselves, selling their designs to fashion houses, directly to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. The garments bear the buyer's label. Some fashion designers set up their own labels, under which their designs are marketed. Some fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands which have a 'name' as their brand such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Justice, or Juicy are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a designer director.

Designing a garment. Fashion designers work in different ways. Some sketch their ideas on paper, while others drape fabric on a dress form. When a designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile (or muslin), he or she will consult a professional pattern maker who then makes the finished, working version of the pattern out of card or via a computerized system. The pattern maker's job is very precise and painstaking. The fit of the finished garment depends on their accuracy. Finally, a sample garment is made up and tested on a model to make sure it is an operational outfit. Myriam Chalek, owner and founder of Creative Business House explains that most of the time fashion designers only have a fashion concept; the technicality and construction is not thought through during the visual conception and sketching process. Hence, the fashion designer needs to meet with a pattern maker and sample maker to figure out if the sketch on paper can be brought to life according its vision.

Types of fashion. The garments produced by clothing manufacturers fall into three main categories, although these may be split up into additional, more specific categories:

1. Haute couture. Until the 1950s, fashion clothing was predominately designed and manufactured on a made-to-measure or haute couture basis (French for high-sewing), with each garment being created for a specific client. A couture garment is made to order for an individual customer, and is usually made from highquality, expensive fabric, sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Look and fit take priority over the cost of materials and the time it takes to make.

2. Ready-to-wear (pret-a-porter). Ready-to-wear clothes are a cross between haute couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity, so they are rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during a period known as Fashion Week. This takes place on a city-wide basis and occurs twice a year. The main seasons of Fashion Week include, spring/summer, fall/winter, resort, swim and bridal.

3. Mass market. Currently the fashion industry relies more on mass market sales. The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing ready set by the famous names in fashion. They often wait around a season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their own versions of the original look. In order to save money and time, they use cheaper fabrics and simpler production techniques which can easily be done by machine. The end product can therefore be sold much more cheaply.

There is a type of design called "kutch" design originated from the German word "kitschig" meaning "ugly" or "not aesthetically pleasing." Kitsch can also refer to "wearing or displaying something that is therefore no longer in fashion." Often, high-waisted trousers, associated with the 1980s, are considered a "kitsch" fashion statement.

→ Сasual and every-day wear is designed for …

→ A … garment is made specifically for the wearer’s measurements and body stance.

→ They must consider who is likely to wear a … and the situations in which it will be worn.

→ Some … designers are self-employed and design for individual clients.

→ Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each … during a period known as Fashion Week.

London has long been the capital of the UK fashion industry and has a wide range of foreign designs which have integrated with modern British styles. Typical British design is smart but innovative yet recently has become more and more unconventional, fusing traditional styles with modern techniques. Vintage styles play an important role in the British fashion and styling industry. Stylists regularly 'mix and match' the old with the new, which gives British style that unique, bohemian aesthetic that many of the other fashion capitals try to imitate. Irish fashion (both design and styling) is also heavily influenced by fashion trends from Britain. Famous British brands and designers include Burberry, Alexander McQueen, Mulberry, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood.

1. Первым в истории кутюрье традиционно считается модельер, создатель Синдиката Высокой моды Чарльз Фредерик Уорт.

2. С точки зрения искусства мода близка к концептуальному искусству, поскольку она заключается в сочетании различных элементов (прическа, материал одежды, фасон, колор, аксессуары), создающих образ.

3. Мода – это форма безобразия, настолько невыносимого, что мы вынуждены изменять ее каждые полгода. (О. Уайльд).

4. Одежда производится в небольших количествах, чтобы гарантировать эксклюзивность, так что они довольно дорогие.

5. На сегодняшний день наибольшая часть одежды рассчитана на массовый рынок, в особенности для удобной и повседневной носки.

→ What is the function of fashion designers?

→ What kind of garments can you name ‘haute couture’?

→ What type of collections are presented each season during a period known as Fashion Week?

→ How does Myriam Chalek explain the designing process?